30s 40s Vintage Men's Suit Double Breasted Jacket Vest Pants As-Is Nanking China VFG

$ 250.00
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Amazing late 1930s to early 1940s double breasted suit, and in a larger size! It is very wearable, but there are condition issues - please read details in Condition Report below and review closeup photos. This is a 4 piece suit - jacket, vest, and pants and an extra pair of pants. The jacket is double breasted, and without a back vent. It features moderately padded shoulders and very sharp lapels. The jacket is partially lined, as is typical for the era. Pants are single pleated and cuffed. The vest has 4 bound pockets and is fully lined.

SIZE: No size label 

 Measurements Inches Cm
Jacket: Chest 45" 114
Jacket: Shoulders 18.75" 47.5


Jacket chest - 45" (114 cm) 
Jacket shoulders - 18.75" (47.5 cm) 
Jacket, approximate waist - 42.5" (108 cm)
Jacket, bottom hem circumference - 48" (122 cm)
Jacket length from back of neck - 29" (71.5 cm) 
Jacket sleeve length - 23.5" (59.75 cm) 
Vest, Chest - 41.5" (105.5 cm)
Vest, approximate waist - 39" (99 cm)
Vest, length from back of neck - 20.5" (52 cm)
Pants waist  - 37" (94 cm)
Paints inseam - 30" (76 cm)
Pants front rise  - 11" (28 cm)
Pants, cuff circumference - 18.5" (47 cm)

FABRIC/COLORS: Medium to lighter weight suiting material, wool per fiber burn test. From a distance, color is gray - close up, it is heathered with a light gray pinstripe and an even skinnier pinstripe in dark red. Linings vary from gray muslin to striped gray and white.

TAGS: Daimaru ltd Tailoring Dept, Nanking. 

CLOSURES: The jacket is a 6 x 2 - six visible external buttons, two of them functional, along with an internal button to keep the front aligned. The vest closes with five buttons. The pants are button front with a hidden placket - a hook & bar at the waist, and an extra flap with a button to anchor it inside. All buttons are tannish colored plastic.

CONDITION: There are a few scattered moth holes. I found one on the cuff of the inner left leg of the pantsleg On close inspection, I also found 3 on the left half of the jacket and four on the right. Most are quite small - see closeups - except for an inner seam allowance, which is a bit bigger but not seen when worn. The suit has been through 2 cycles in my deep freezer to eliminate any ongoing moth issues. 
The suit would benefit from drycleaning, but I don't trust my local cleaners. The vest lining is discolored at the back of the neck and the inner front waist points. The bottom edge of the jacket is discolored along the front - see closeups.

Historical Note: Nanking was in the province of Jiangsu and was the capitol of China. It became famous for The Rape of Nanking, a month's long episode of brutal violence perpetrated by Japanese soldiers from December 1937 to March 1938. In the 1950s, Nanking began to be known aa Nanjiang. There is a chain of Daimaru department stores in Japan that traces their origin to a kimono shop in Kyoto that opened in 1717. Daimaru stores eventually expanded into China in 1996 in Shanghai. I have consulted with the historical department of Daimaru, who felt certain that they had not been operating in Nanking in the 1930s/1940s. That suggests that the Daimaru Tailoring Dept, Nanking, who produced this suit, must have been part of a smaller independent shop.

I measure the outside of garments, unless stated otherwise.

For menswear, the chest is measured at armpit level.

For womenswear, the bust is measured a little below armpit level, including the room created by darts or gathers.

Waist will be measured if there is one, and hips are measured about 9" below waist level. Sleeves are measured from shoulder seam or an approximation in the absence of a shoulder seam. Garment length is measured from the back of the neck, unless otherwise stated.

The measurement numbers refer to the garment, not the body inside. For best fit, measure a similar type of garment which fits you well and compare.

If the garment is shown on Josephine, my mannequin, her measurements are 31/24.5/34". Sometimes she wears a padded bra. My live models measurements vary depending on the day and year, and I don't ask them to share that.