20s Straw Boater Hat, Vintage Men's Large Dobbs 7.5 As-Is VFG
A wonderful straw summer hat, late 1920s to early 1930s, from Dobbs, one of the more iconic hat makers of the 20th century, and in a large size! This boater has a shallower crown than some.The head shape seems to be a long oval. According to my research the Dobbs New York shops used this street number - 620 and 324 Fifth Avenue - on their liner between 1927 and 1930 (thank you to Brad Bowers, the Hatted Professor). The price reflects a flaw - please read Condition report and check out closeup photos.
SIZE: Labeled size 7 1/2
| Measurements | Inches | Cm |
| Inner band circumference | 22.5" | 57 |
| Outer brim circumference | 43" | 109.25 |
| Brim width | 2.75 | 7 |
| Height of crown sitting on flat surface | 3.25" | 8.25 |
| Diameter of outer brim, side to side | 13" | 33 |
| Diameter of outer brim front to back | 14.5" | 37 |
MATERIALS/COLORS: Sturdy woven straw, with 2" wide black grosgrain ribbon headband. The inner sweat band is soft tan leather, and the inner crown with logo is cream colored matte satin. There is finely woven crisp tan netting sewn to the edges of the inner crown that tucks under the edge of the sweatband.
TAGS: On the inner crown, Dobbs, Fifth Avenue New York. Exclusive Representative: Mullen & Bluett, Los Angeles Hollywood, Pasadena.
CONDITION: I find a single small hole in the straw at the edge of the crown on the wearer's left near the front of the hat - see closeup. There are several pinpoint holes on either side of the inner sweatband - see closeup. The satin inner crown has a mildly discolored area in the center that is probably from the original owner's pomade. No other issues noted.
History: Straw boaters, with their flat brim and flat crown, became popular for men as a warm weather alternative to more formal felt hats in the 1880s. They reached peak popularity in the first few decades of the 20th century. On Straw Hat Day, at the beginning of summer, men were expected to put away their felt hats and switch to straw. On Felt Hat Day in September or October, they had to switch back again. Their straw hat might be destroyed by young rowdies if they didn't comply, most famously in New York City during the Straw Hat Riots of 1922.
I measure the outside of garments, unless stated otherwise.
For menswear, the chest is measured at armpit level.
For womenswear, the bust is measured a little below armpit level, including the room created by darts or gathers.
Waist will be measured if there is one, and hips are measured about 9" below waist level. Sleeves are measured from shoulder seam or an approximation in the absence of a shoulder seam. Garment length is measured from the back of the neck, unless otherwise stated.
The measurement numbers refer to the garment, not the body inside. For best fit, measure a similar type of garment which fits you well and compare.
If the garment is shown on Josephine, my mannequin, her measurements are 31/24.5/34". Sometimes she wears a padded bra. My live models measurements vary depending on the day and year, and I don't ask them to share that.